Handcrafted Clothes: what does it really mean?

Words like “artisanal,” “handmade,” and “craftsmanship” are thrown around in fashion marketing so frequently and in so many contexts that they have lost clear linguistic meaning. These terms are intended to indicate that a garment is somehow special, more valuable than counterparts without those labels. Crafts like hand-knitting, braiding, and crocheting have seen a resurgence of popularity in designer runway collections. Ulla Johnson, Isabel Marant, Tommy Hilfiger, and more featured handcrafted techniques in their recent seasons.

Runway

 What does handcrafted really mean when it comes to clothing? The alternative, machine made, is the typical mass production model of garment-making, in which clothes are constructed via assembly line with very little human interference. The process is automated and completely replicable. “Handmade” means that at least part of the garment was made the old fashioned way, by hand. This might mean a hand-stitched collar, an embroidered sleeve, or embellished cuffs, or it could mean that a single person used a sewing machine to construct the garment rather than a fast fashion assembly line process.

leather bag

(Handmade Leather bag - Bynes New York)

Modern garments that are called handmade are typically at least partly made by machine (even if that’s just a sewing machine). Completely handmade clothes are hard to find outside of historical costuming or your grandma’s knitting circle. The distinction between handmade and machine made is increasingly blurred and dissolved, just as the distinction between haute couture and ready-to-wear has become less and less clear since the ’60s. Most high quality clothing involves both machines and real people and each technique has advantages and disadvantages depending on the application.

The Resurgence of Craftsmanship

Italian Atelier

 (Our partner artisans in the Milanese Ateliers)

When assembly-line, standard-sized, ready to wear clothing first became popular, pieces that were handmade were considered old-fashioned and unstylish. They were associated with clothes made at home cheaply, while machine made clothes were avant-garde and associated with designers. But as machine made, ready-to-wear clothing became the norm, handmade garments acquired special, exclusive status associated with top designers and custom couture pieces. Fashion has increased production to astronomical levels, and that sense of value has flipped. Handmade now carries more sense of intrinsic value because of its typically superior construction, detailing, sustainability, and human connection.

 

 

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歷史
六七千年前的先民就開始釣魚。周文王曾和兒子們在靈沼釣魚取樂。戰國時范蠡也愛釣魚,常把所釣之魚供給越王勾踐食用。 二十世紀八十年代,中國大陸的各級釣魚協會成立,釣魚地點也從自然水域向養殖水域過度,所釣之魚則從粗養向細養過度。人數增多、水體污染及濫捕濫撈導致釣魚難度上升。釣魚協會開始與漁民和農民簽訂文件,使更多釣者能夠在養殖水域釣魚,達到了雙贏的目的。 二十世紀九十年代初,來自台灣的懸釣法走紅大陸,各地開始建造標準釣池。 二十世紀末,發達國家的釣者提倡回顧自然,引發新一輪野釣戰,而中國的釣者則更青睞精養魚池。1

工具

一种钓鱼竿机械部分示意图
最基本的钓具包括:鱼竿、鱼线、鱼钩、沉坨(又名沉子)、浮标(又名鱼漂)、鱼饵。2:1其他辅助钓具包括:失手绳、钓箱、线轮、抄网、鱼篓、渔具盒、钓鱼服、钓鱼鞋等。2:1

钓竿一般由玻璃纖維或碳纖維轻而有力的竿状物质製成,钓竿和鱼饵用丝线联接。一般的鱼饵可以是蚯蚓、米饭、蝦子、菜叶、苍蝇、蛆等,现代有专门制作好(多数由自己配置的半成品)的粉製鱼饵出售。鱼饵挂在鱼鉤上,不同的對象鱼有不同的釣組配置。在周围水面撒一些誘餌通常会有較好的集魚效果。

钓具
鱼竿
主条目:鱼竿
钓鱼的鱼竿按照材质包括:传统竹竿、玻璃纤维竿、碳素竿,按照钓法包括:手竿、矶竿、海竿(又名甩竿),按照所钓鱼类包括:溪流小继竿、日鲫竿(又名河内竿)、鲤竿、矶中小物竿。2:6-8

鱼钩
主条目:鱼钩
鱼钩就是垂钓用的钩,主要分为:有倒钩、无倒钩、毛钩。2:14

鱼线
主条目:鱼线
鱼线就是垂钓时绑接鱼竿和鱼钩的线,历史上曾使用蚕丝(远古日本)、发丝(江户时期日本)、马尾(西欧)、二枚贝(地中海)、蛛网丝(夏威夷)、琼麻(东南亚)、尼龙钓线(美国)。2:25

鱼漂
主条目:鱼漂
鱼漂又名浮标,垂钓时栓在鱼线上的能漂浮的东西,主要用于搜集水底情报,查看鱼汛,观察鱼饵存留状态,以及水底水流起伏变化。2:36

鱼饵
主条目:鱼饵
鱼饵分为诱饵和钓饵,是一种用来吸引鱼群和垂钓时使用的物品,钓饵分为荤饵、素饵、拟饵、拉饵。2:170

沉子
主条目:沉子
沉子又名沉坨、铅锤,是一种调节鱼漂的工具。2:45

卷线器
主条目:卷线器
卷线器主要安装在海竿和矶竿上的一种卷线的工具。2:63

连结具
主条目:连结具
连结具是连结鱼线与钓竿、母线与子线的一种连结物,使用最广泛的是连结环。2:55

识鱼
鱼类的视力不如人类,距离、宽度均无法和人类的视力比较,鱼类对水色、绿色比较敏感,鱼类的嗅觉非常灵敏,鱼类的听觉也非常灵敏,钓鲤鱼时,不能在岸上大声谈笑、走动不停,鱼类的思考能力非常弱,鱼类应对周边环境随着气象、水温、水色、潮流、流速、水量的变化而变化,于是便出现了在同一个池塘、水库、湖泊,往日钓鱼收获大,今日少,上午收获大,下午少,晴天大,雨天少等情况。2:114-117淡水钓鱼,中国大陆经常垂钓的鱼类对象是本地鲫鱼、日本鲫、非洲鲫、鲤鱼、游鱼、罗非鱼、黄刺鱼(黄鸭叫)、黄尾、鳊鱼、青鱼、草鱼、鲢鱼、鳙鱼,台湾经常垂钓的鱼类对象是本地鲫鱼、日本鲫、吴郭鱼(罗非鱼)、溪哥仔和红猫(粗首马口鱲)、斗鱼、罗汉鱼、苦花、三角姑(河鮠)、竹蒿头(密鱼)。2:117

影响鱼类的6大因素主要是:季节变更、气温高低、水的涨落、风的大小、水的清浊、天气阴晴

ShawnRox December 26, 2020

: [url=http://zrenieblog.ru/]http://zrenieblog.ru/[/url] http://zrenieblog.ru/ http://zrenieblog.ru/
歷史
六七千年前的先民就開始釣魚。周文王曾和兒子們在靈沼釣魚取樂。戰國時范蠡也愛釣魚,常把所釣之魚供給越王勾踐食用。 二十世紀八十年代,中國大陸的各級釣魚協會成立,釣魚地點也從自然水域向養殖水域過度,所釣之魚則從粗養向細養過度。人數增多、水體污染及濫捕濫撈導致釣魚難度上升。釣魚協會開始與漁民和農民簽訂文件,使更多釣者能夠在養殖水域釣魚,達到了雙贏的目的。 二十世紀九十年代初,來自台灣的懸釣法走紅大陸,各地開始建造標準釣池。 二十世紀末,發達國家的釣者提倡回顧自然,引發新一輪野釣戰,而中國的釣者則更青睞精養魚池。1

工具

一种钓鱼竿机械部分示意图
最基本的钓具包括:鱼竿、鱼线、鱼钩、沉坨(又名沉子)、浮标(又名鱼漂)、鱼饵。2:1其他辅助钓具包括:失手绳、钓箱、线轮、抄网、鱼篓、渔具盒、钓鱼服、钓鱼鞋等。2:1

钓竿一般由玻璃纖維或碳纖維轻而有力的竿状物质製成,钓竿和鱼饵用丝线联接。一般的鱼饵可以是蚯蚓、米饭、蝦子、菜叶、苍蝇、蛆等,现代有专门制作好(多数由自己配置的半成品)的粉製鱼饵出售。鱼饵挂在鱼鉤上,不同的對象鱼有不同的釣組配置。在周围水面撒一些誘餌通常会有較好的集魚效果。

钓具
鱼竿
主条目:鱼竿
钓鱼的鱼竿按照材质包括:传统竹竿、玻璃纤维竿、碳素竿,按照钓法包括:手竿、矶竿、海竿(又名甩竿),按照所钓鱼类包括:溪流小继竿、日鲫竿(又名河内竿)、鲤竿、矶中小物竿。2:6-8

鱼钩
主条目:鱼钩
鱼钩就是垂钓用的钩,主要分为:有倒钩、无倒钩、毛钩。2:14

鱼线
主条目:鱼线
鱼线就是垂钓时绑接鱼竿和鱼钩的线,历史上曾使用蚕丝(远古日本)、发丝(江户时期日本)、马尾(西欧)、二枚贝(地中海)、蛛网丝(夏威夷)、琼麻(东南亚)、尼龙钓线(美国)。2:25

鱼漂
主条目:鱼漂
鱼漂又名浮标,垂钓时栓在鱼线上的能漂浮的东西,主要用于搜集水底情报,查看鱼汛,观察鱼饵存留状态,以及水底水流起伏变化。2:36

鱼饵
主条目:鱼饵
鱼饵分为诱饵和钓饵,是一种用来吸引鱼群和垂钓时使用的物品,钓饵分为荤饵、素饵、拟饵、拉饵。2:170

沉子
主条目:沉子
沉子又名沉坨、铅锤,是一种调节鱼漂的工具。2:45

卷线器
主条目:卷线器
卷线器主要安装在海竿和矶竿上的一种卷线的工具。2:63

连结具
主条目:连结具
连结具是连结鱼线与钓竿、母线与子线的一种连结物,使用最广泛的是连结环。2:55

识鱼
鱼类的视力不如人类,距离、宽度均无法和人类的视力比较,鱼类对水色、绿色比较敏感,鱼类的嗅觉非常灵敏,鱼类的听觉也非常灵敏,钓鲤鱼时,不能在岸上大声谈笑、走动不停,鱼类的思考能力非常弱,鱼类应对周边环境随着气象、水温、水色、潮流、流速、水量的变化而变化,于是便出现了在同一个池塘、水库、湖泊,往日钓鱼收获大,今日少,上午收获大,下午少,晴天大,雨天少等情况。2:114-117淡水钓鱼,中国大陆经常垂钓的鱼类对象是本地鲫鱼、日本鲫、非洲鲫、鲤鱼、游鱼、罗非鱼、黄刺鱼(黄鸭叫)、黄尾、鳊鱼、青鱼、草鱼、鲢鱼、鳙鱼,台湾经常垂钓的鱼类对象是本地鲫鱼、日本鲫、吴郭鱼(罗非鱼)、溪哥仔和红猫(粗首马口鱲)、斗鱼、罗汉鱼、苦花、三角姑(河鮠)、竹蒿头(密鱼)。2:117

影响鱼类的6大因素主要是:季节变更、气温高低、水的涨落、风的大小、水的清浊、天气阴晴

Shawnlep December 26, 2020

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